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Fore Grip

February 5th, 2010 admin No comments

Fore Grip
Does anyone know where I can find a black, solid stock for a Smith and Wesson 3000?

I have a Smith and Wesson 3000 that currently has a pistol grip on it, the orginal wooden fore grip, and one of those OD green baked on finishes on the frame. I've een looking for a solid black stock, but all I can find are the orignal wood stocks, or the folding black tactical stocks. Would it be easier to locate this black stock or is there a way to take the OD green off and use the readily available wooden stock? Will parts off an Remington 870 or another shotgun fit?

Other than it's identical to the Mossberg 3000 and that wooden stocks are about all you're going to find, that's about all I can say stock-wise.

The 870 isn't really the same, but it *can* be made to fit if you're creative. Your best bet, without touching the weapon or the current stock, is to use a 1/4" spacer and make each side of it fit the receiver and the 870 stock. You're out nothing that way and no destroyed parts. Once you get the spacer to fit, you can then modify the 870 stock or leave it as is.

Other than that, you could find yourself a cheapo wood stock, sand down/fill the checkering, and apply some skateboard tape to the wrist before spraying it black. Easy cheesy tactical stock. You'd be surprised how many of those are floating around.

The green could be simple paint in which case an overnight soak in Lowe's paint stripper could take it off....but if it's one of the commercial gun finishes like Gun Kote etc, you're looking at sandblasting to remove it.

If it were mine, I'd try the overnight paint stripper first....second would be a pack of fresh Scotch Brite pads and a lot of elbow grease....third would be a new finish with black gloss Gun Kote.

It's a fine weapon, but you're always going to have probs with parts. My suggestion is once you get it cleaned up a bit, take it to gunbroker or your local pawn shop and sell it. Use the cash and buy a Rem 870 or a Mossy 500.

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Fore Grip

Sailing - the Five Essentials

Do you know the five essentials points of sailing? When sailing you should always check that all five are adjusted to your sailing direction.

Boat balance - If a yacht is allowed to heel away from the wind, it will tend to turn into the wind or luff up. If the boat is allowed to heel towards the wind, it will tend to turn downwind or bear away. In either ease some rudder movement will be needed to keep it on course, which will slow the boat down. Turn the boat using the wheel to the desired course to steer. This may be a definite bearing or towards a landmark, or at a desired angle to the apparent wind direction.

Trim fore and aft - The distribution of crew weight fore and aft is just as important as balancing the boat. To learn the techniques you should always practice. Shifting your weight towards the wind will always help. In other words, that means moving forward in the boat when sailing to windward and moving aft when sailing downwind. The aim is to adjust the position of the crew forwards or backwards to achieve an 'even keel'. On an upwind course in a small boat, the crew typically sit forward, when 'running' it is more efficient for the crew to sit to the rear of the boat. The position of the crew matters less as the size (and weight) of the boat increases

Sail setting - A sail should be pulled in until it fills with wind, but no further than the point where the front edge of the sail (the luff) is exactly in line with the wind. As a guide, you will find that any sail, whether jib, mainsail or spinnaker, will set best by letting out until it starts to flap gently along the leading edge, then pulled in just enough to stop that flapping.

Centreboard - As well as driving a yacht forward, the action of the wind on the sails will push it sideways across the water - this is known as making leeway. To prevent this, the yacht needs more grip on the water, which is provided by a centreboard daggerboard or keel. The difference is simple. A centreboard will pivot around the bolt in its case; a daggerboard is moved vertically up and down In some older yachts you might find a metal board, referred to as a centreplate, all three do the same job. If a moveable centreboard is fitted, then it should be lowered when sailing "close to the wind" but can be raised up on downwind courses to reduce drag. The centreboard prevents lateral motion and allows the boat to sail upwind. A boat with no centreboard will instead have a permanent keel, some other form of underwater foil, or even the hull itself which serves the same purpose.

Course made good - This is the shortest distance between two points. The course made good will be a straight line from start to finish. You need to decide the best way way of getting from one point to another in all other conditions.

Together, these points are known as 'The Five Essentials'.

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